It seems pertinent (as we countdown to Beaujolais Nouveau) to talk a bit about Gamay.
It’s famous in Beaujolais but did you know that it’s also grown quite widely here in the Loire in Anjou, Touraine and the Côte Roannaise?
So what can you expect from a Gamay? Something fresh and fruity, not too high in tannin with fairly high acidity. Gamay is super food friendly and an excellent choice for the holidays.
When we talk about Gamay, we’re normally referring to the Gamay Noir grape (there are other lesser known Gamays that are related but less widely planted).
Like all grape varieties, it would be easy to generalise about Gamay. It has a reputation for producing wines that are suited for early drinking. That’s true but don’t take that as given. It can also make wines that are suitable for ageing.
Gamay Noir is an old Burgundian variety that is a natural progeny of Pinot and Gouais Blanc. France had 30,443 hectares (75,226 acres) planted in 2009 making it the seventh most planted variety. Around two thirds are planted in and around the Beaujolais region.
In the past Gamay wines were light and fruity and much of them were rushed to market in time for ‘Beaujolais Nouveau’ (the third Thursday in November when the first wines of the season are launched).
Beaujolais Nouveau was huge in the 1980’s and the wines were often thin and acidic with notes of boiled sweets and banana. As the fashion for Beaujolais Nouveau subsided, growers switched to making more serious wines with better structure, some oak ageing and lovely notes of peppery red fruit.
Carbonic maceration is still often the winemaking style of choice. This is where whole bunches of grapes are placed directly in a tank without any oxygen present. The fermentation starts from the centre of the berry and works it way towards the skins giving light fruity wines that are generally lower in tannin than you would find in a normal fermentation.
Today, it’s one of our favourite grape varieties. The mid-weight palate and freshness make it brilliant for pairing with food and it’s truly excellent with a roasted bird. As the tannins are generally moderate it can also take on the cheeseboard. An easy drinking juicy style is great as an apero too.
Here in Touraine we’ll find Primeur wines in a couple of weeks. Both Sauvignon Blanc and Gamay wines will be on the shelves.
Recent vintages in the Loire have been fantastic for Gamay. The hot sunny summers have given rich ripe fruit with beautiful concentration and lovely freshness. We’ve particularly enjoyed Fred Plou’s Gamay 2020 from Chateau de Montdomaine and love the Gamays from the Côte Roannaise (around 200km further south but still technically part of the Loire).
If you’re looking for a food friendly, flexible wine to pair with your turkey then do consider a Gamay.
