5th generation winemakers, Xavier and Geraldine Cailleau at Chateau de Bois Brinçon make an eclectic range of wines of impressive quality in the heart of Anjou close to the delightful village of Blaison-Gohier just 10 minutes from us here at le tasting room.
One of the oldest domaines in Anjou, it’s history dates as far back as 1219 when it one of the principal domaines attached to the Hospital St Jean in Angers. After the Revolution, the domaine passed into the hands of several owners before being acquired by the Cailleau family in 1891. Things went well and the domain expanded until the mid 50’s when the estate suffered 3 years of devastating frosts and with that came some difficult years to follow. Xavier’s grandfather decided to diversify by planting apple trees but times were tough and lacking the morale to continue, he gave up vinifying his own wines in 1960, instead selling both apples and grapes to the local co-operative. By 1990 Bois Brinçon had 23 hectares of apples and 22 of vines.
Chateau Bois Brinçon in Anjou
Xavier took over the reins in 1991 and determined to make a go of it, made some big decisions. Little by little he took back control of the parcels where the grapes were vinified by the co-operative. He stopped using fertiliser and started leaving grass between every other row. Very quickly he saw the vines became more self-regulating and the resulting wines showed a more true reflection of their terroir. Taking it a step further he embraced the methods employed by Yves Hérody, which involve a very close analysis of each parcel, using samples from both the top soil and deeper down (at least 2 horizons) and establishing the existence or lack of important minerals and nutrients and also assessing the levels of bacteria, fungi and root establishment. He moved towards organic certification in 2006 and today all the vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically.
Today, the wines from the estate are labelled clearly and concisely. The name of the commune or parcel where the vines are planted, the appellation and the soil type. We like all the wines from the estate but those that we have a particular weakness for are:
Terre de Grès 2015, Anjou Blanc Sec 12,50€
One and a half hectares of Chenin Blanc planted on chalky limestone terroir with sandstone. Whole bunch pressing followed by fermentation in barrique and ageing for 10 months in 1-3 wine oak barrels with batonnage depending upon the vintage. Quite tight on the nose but with a nice floral note and lovely minerality on the palate. It has lovely length and would be great served alongside seafood.
Les Saules des Montbenault 2014 Anjou Blanc Sec 18€
O.8 of a hectare of Chenin Blanc planted on volcanic rock (rhyolite) in Faye d’Anjou. Low yields (20hl/ha) and very selective manual picking of golden grapes that are not affected by botrytis. Beautiful citric nose (almost Burgundian in style) with lovely fruit and elegance. Fermented in oak barrels (2/3 new), light clarification, aged for 1 year and then a further 6 months in tank on the lees (yeast deposit). This is a really classy wine that is definitely worth the price. It’s rich and ripe, plum skin fruit, and citrus but at the same time smooth on the palate and with enough acidity to keep its freshness. Love it.
Les Saules des Montbenault 2013 Anjou Blanc Sec 18€
Much less citric on the nose than the 2013 (not surprising as this was a much less sunny vintage). Tighter and with more minerality with plummy mirabelle notes and a more gentle floral aroma. On the palate however, the wine makes your mouth water and the level of acidity is much higher than on the 2014. Xavier says that the pH on the wine was very low no malo took place so this explains the mouthwatering quality of the wine. Nigel and I are divided on this one, he prefers the tight, lean, quality of this vintage whereas I prefer the 2014 which is richer and fuller. They have different uses I feel. For lovers of precise, lean, zingy Chenin the 2013 is for you but for those not quite so keen then the 2014 is for you.
La Seignerie 2015 Anjou Rouge 10,50€
3 hectares of Cabernet Franc on a chalky limestone terroir from the Turonien era. 35 year old vines planted with a very open aspect enabling them to take advantage of the sun. A maceration of 15 to 21 days and ageing for 20 months in underground concrete tanks. A great example of ripe crunchy Cabernet Franc. Packed full of lovely ripe bramble fruits with hints of rose petals and rosehip. Nice ripe tannins on the palate that are well integrated and a rich richness of fruit continues through to the end.
Le Clos de Cosses 2015 Anjou Villages Rouge 12,50€
Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (50/50) co-planted on an oyster shell terroir. 21-25 days maceration and 20 months in underground concrete tanks. Much darker fruit on the nose. Tighter and with more blueberry fruit aromas. More savoury and higher acidity on the palate then the Seignerie and also bigger tannins.
’85 Grolleau 2015 13€ Vin de France
Exciting wine made with 85 year old Grolleau vines. Grolleau is a grape variety planted widely in Anjou but more often than not, for the production of fruity rosé. In order to make an interesting wine, yield needs to be severely curtailed. With 85 years of age, that’s not a problem and the resulting wine is a soft, spicy fruity wine with light tannins and lovely ripeness. It had 10 months ageing in stainless steel and is a wonderful wine to serve with light meats or griddled salmon. Sadly, this will be the last vintage as the vineyard produces such tiny quantities it is not viable any more (15hl/ha). It’s classified as a table wine a ‘Vin de France’ because there is no appellation for red wines in Anjou made from 100% Grolleau. Watch this space though – a new joint project with one or two other well known growers in the region is underfoot and cuttings have been taken from these old ladies to ensure the flavours and aromas can be reproduced elsewhere…
49320 Blaison-Gohier
Tel 02 41 57 19 62
