The Fiefs Vendéens? Is that part of the Loire? Where is it exactly? What kind of wines come from there?
Sometimes, the lesser known appellations of the Loire can provide some little gems and the Fiefs Vendéens is one that you should make a note of.
So where is it then? Close to the ocean on the far south-west side of the Loire valley, the Fiefs Vendéens is quite different to other appellations in the region. It’s by the seaside. Not far from La Rochelle, Les Sables d’Olonne, St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie. Can you picture where it is now?
Don’t expect to see slate roof tiles on the local houses like you do in Anjou. Here the brick red of teraccotta dominates the landscape which is much more Mediterranean in style (and climate).
It’s a relatively new AOC (2011) but its winemaking history goes back to roman times. 420 hectares of vineyards spread out among five different terroirs: Mareuil, Brem, Pissotte, Vix & Chantonnay.
18 vignerons of which 10 are certified organic or biodynamic making predominantly rosé wine (50% of production), followed by red (31%) and white (19%).
You can expect to find Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Grolleau, Gamay and Negrette for reds and Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Grolleau Gris and Sauvignon for whites.
Last night we enjoyed a really top knotch bottle from Jeremie Mourat whose family winery owns around a third of the appellation (165 hectares). Yes, that’s quite a big estate I hear you say. It is, but they produce some really fabulous organic wines and the Clos St André 2017 that we drank is up there with our favourite white wines from the Loire valley (up there with Anjou, Savennières, Brézé and Vouvray).
If you remember – a clos is a walled vineyard and the Clos Saint André is a small clos that used to belong to the Taittinger family (of Champagne). Long abandoned, Vignobles Mourat took it over in 2006 and replanted it with Chenin Blanc.
The first vintage we tasted was the 2012. We were blown away by the wine. How on earth had Jeremie Mourat managed to make something so wonderful with such young vines. It rather put aside the notion that it’s impossible to make an interesting and complex wine from vines that have barely laid down their roots.
Last night we enjoyed the 2017. 90% Chenin Blanc and 10% Chardonnay. Just as delicious as we’d remembered but with even more complexity and elegance. It’s lean and tight with notes of fresh pear and lime. The acidity is high and it has a wonderful saline quality. Like a sea breeze gently drifting over your palate.
A fabulous wine. We bought it in La Part Des Anges in Tours and paid 14 euros. Worth every euro!
We also love his Muscadets (he works in partnership with another grower called Jeremy Huchet), his rosé Pinot Noir from the Moulin Blanc range and his 100% Negrette, Le Grenouillère.
For information Jeremie Mourat’s winery is on the road leading to La Roche sur Yon on the coast and has an excellent tasting room where you can stop to taste and buy on your way past. Recently built, it’s very contemporary and has a cellar full of egg shaped fermenters!
For more information check out their website here (in French) and look out for the wines of Domaine St Nicolas too. Fabulous wines from Thierry Michon.
