Anne-Claire Vallée was on top form at the Salon des Vins de Loire as we tasted through the current range.
There were a couple of new wines to the portfolio to taste this year, two Sauvignon Blancs, one in the Vin de France category and one in the Touraine appellation.
Domaine de la Cotellerie is in the St Nicolas de Bourgueil appellation so makes red and rosé only from the Cabernet Franc grape. Anne-Claire was explaining that the addition of a couple of white wines makes their proposition more interesting and we are inclined to agree.
The Vin de France Sauvignon 2021 is made from organic grapes bought in from elsewhere. Gerald does have a négoce side to the business (separate from their own vineyards) which is very successful so they were well placed to source the grapes for this. It’s a soft and fruity Sauvignon with plenty of varietal character.
The Touraine Sauvignon is quite different. More restrained and complex on the nose with a light white pepper note on the palate and some grassy herbal notes.
We love the labeling on these new Sauvignons. A nod to the bird theme that runs through the domaine’s exisiting range but taking it in a new modern direction. Look carefully and you can see a little rabbit swinging under the tree and a squirrel hiding in the branches. Fresh, quirky and appealing.
Pigeur Fou 2021 was tasting particularly delicious. This is wine made using carbonic maceration and no pumping over (contrary to what the label might infer). Ripe spicy easy drinking fruit on this very appealing Cab Franc.
The top of the range Envolée 2019 was also tasting fabulous. Savoury and tight on the nose with sour cherries and redcurrants, cassis and spice. It has lovely weight and balance.
The appellation of St Nicolas de Bourgueil includes just one village. The large majority of its vineyards are on the sandy alluvial terraces close to the river but there are also vineyards further away from the river on the limestone bedrock that produce serious wines with ageing capacity.
It’s funny, French consumers have a preference for St Nicolas over Bourgueil but it’s Bourgueil that has more of its vineyards on serious terroir. Apparently the ‘Saint’ makes all the difference!
