It’s a while since we were in Anjou so it was a pleasure to drop in on Antoine and Nathalie Leduc of Leduc-Frouin when we were there last week.
Big fans of Antoine’s Crémant de Loire as well as his Anjou Rouges in particular, it was good to catch up and taste the latest vintages on sale.
In many ways, their story reflects 2021 throughout the Loire. Losses to frost early in the season, problems controlling downy mildew throughout the season and a sunny finish which saved the day and brought in ripe grapes.
Leduc-Frouin is certified Terra Vitis – a certification that addresses traceability, resources and the workplace (including working conditions for employees) in a way that organic certification doesn’t. It does however allow the controlled use of synthetic products if required. In years like 2021 when mildew threatened to nearly wipe out the harvest of many growers, having the option of using such a product proved a lifesaver. And is it so bad to use a product that will save a crop? That subject is up for discussion.
Anyway, what can I tell you about Leduc-Frouin?
It’s a small family run estate run by brother and sister Antoine and Nathalie Leduc. One of our favourite estates in Anjou for many years. Antoine (who makes the wine) is a talented, fastidious winemaker that has his eye on his customers. The winery is always spotless and his wines are fresh, clean and some of the best examples of Anjou Rouge that we’ve come across.
Antoine manages to make reds that are beautifully ripe on the nose, have moderate silky tannins and lovely freshness on the palate. You never find any bitter or unripe notes on his reds and they are our ‘go to’ wines for a mid-week supper. They don’t have pretensions. The wines are simple wines, extremely well made and frankly an absolute bargain.
Like most estates in Anjou, a large proportion of their volume is Anjou Rosé and Cabernet d’Anjou. We didn’t taste those wines of this occasion as we were on a reds mission but his are particularly well made achieving the sugar acid balance that makes them some of the best examples in what can be considered an uninteresting appellation.
Vendanges du 23 Septembre 2019 (100% Chenin Blanc dry)
That’s the exact date when the Chenin Blanc grapes were picked to make this atypical cuvée of Anjou Blanc. It’s the only DRY white available for sale at the domaine at present until the Anjou Blanc is bottled in a couple of months.
Vinified and aged in oak barrels it has sweet pineapple fruit on the nose with a slightly herbal note. It’s a big wine on the palate. Warm and rich with good length and structure. It comes from a terroir that makes Coteaux du Layon (a sweet wine appellation) and has exceptionally ripe grapes which are reflected in the wine. Citrus notes and a touch of grapefruit kick in towards the finish which is long and pronounced.
This is definitely a food wine. Fish or chicken in a creamy sauce and cheese would be great alongside.
Anjou La Seignerie 2019 (Cabernet Franc 100%)
Bottled about a month ago this Cabernet Franc which is vinified and aged in tank (no wood influence here) is one of our favourites, particularly in a warm sunny year such as 2019 (remember we had two weeks over 40°C).
Lovely ripe red fruits on the nose lead into a fresh raspberryish palate with lovely light tannins and freshness. This is just a lovely medium weight red that would be delicious served with a charcuterie platter or alongside a bowl of tomato pasta.
Anjou Villages 2018 (70% Cab Franc 30% Cab Sauvignon)
This comes from an old parcel planted by Antoine’s grandfather and the two grape varieties are coplanted together in the vineyard (as was common in the past).
Big concentration on the nose and a rich deep colour. Ripe darker fruits with some prune and cocoa notes creeping in. The rich fruit notes continue right through on the palate. It’s got much more structure and tannin then the Anjou and has been aged for 1 year.
The tannins while more present are still velvety and integrated and the dark fruits continue to the end. A lovely wine.
Coteaux du Layon Floriledge 2019 (100% Chenin Blanc sweet)
Grapes for this cuvée are picked when the grapes are slightly ‘over mature’. They turn a deep golden colour tinged with purple but don’t have noble rot. This is to ensure a sweet wine that has a fresh style.
Aged in tank (no wood) it has lovely fresh fruit notes of apricot and honey. Nice weight in the mouth. Not remotely cloying but light, fresh and airy. Delightful.
Grand Clos 2017 (100% Chenin Blanc sweet)
This wine comes from the same parcel but has been picked later and has botrytis which changes the aromatic profile dramatically.
Notes of caramelised orange as well as dark wild honey on the nose and delicate hints of orange blossom and ripe Mirabelle plums. Lovely acidity creeps in on the palate and a lovely textural quality that gives interest and mouthfeel.
So what did we buy? Well, we stocked up with the Anjou Rouge for our own every day drinking, a few bottles of the Anjou Villages and 6 of the Grand Clos. At 10,90€ a bottle it’s ridiculous value for money.
You can find Leduc-Frouin’s wines in London in the UK and some states of the USA as well as in Hong Kong and Russia.
